One of my favourite views in all of Lakeland is from a motor road. As the summit of the Birker Fell road is reached from the Duddon side a wonderful panorama opens out ahead over Eskdale to the high peaks enclosing Wasdale and Eskdale. The Scafell range and Bowfell round to Crinkle Crags make for an imposing backcloth beyond the green fields and woods of the Eskdale valley. No less dramatic to the eye is the scene on the right eastwards, where three tiers of rugged fell rise from the moor inviting any true fellwalker to explore further. The lower rampart is formed by Great Crag, and behind this rise Green Crag and Crook Crag on a rocky crest that many a higher fell would savour. Overtopping these is a shapely peak which really does command attention. This is Harter Fell one of Lakelands most picturesque mountains, and boasting a summit where the rocks persist to the highest point requiring a simple climb to reach it. Some of the paths to Harter Fell have lost their former charm due to popularity, but that does not nullify the rewards of climbing this fell. Apart from the summit rocks the view is good; with the Roman Fort on Hardknott Pass prominent below. From Harter Fell a wide ridge continues to the top of the pass, beyond which the rough face of Border End a subsidiary of Hard Knott promises a tough ascent. A simple rake just east of the road summit provides the best way onto the fell which is entirely delightful; a maze of rocky tors with tiny tarns, and from the top one of the best views of the Scafell range. Green Crag and Crook Crag are not as simple to reach as their position and height would suggest, for they stand amidst a veritable tangle of tough heather and marsh. There is a beautiful way to them from Low Birker using the old peat track, and they can be approached quite well from the bridleway between Eskdale and the Duddon Valley above Grassguards. Between them and Harter Fell though is a real morass best avoided by returning to the wall and stile to the south. Harter Fell as seen from Eskdale is one of the shapeliest fells in the Lake District. And I must mention the waterfall at Stanley Ghyll in it's little glen. This is well worth a visit.

ROUTE ONE. HARTER FELL FROM ESKDALE VIA BORDER END AND HARD KNOTT.
3.75 miles 2500ft of ascent.  

    At the foot of Hardknott Pass take the path by Brotherilkeld farm,and follow it up to Lingcove Bridge. This can also be gained by crossing above the plantation opposite the parking area at the foot of the pass. Continue ahead without crossing the bridge with some excellent beck scenery to enjoy, and when the stream curves to the right a lower grassy saddle linking with Mosedale enables Hard Knott's north ridge to be gained. The summit of Hard Knott is a good one in the midst of some of the finest scenery in Lakeland, but some spongy areas are encountered during the ascent. There are two tops the first one being the highest on this approach. A path makes it's way down to Hardknott Pass but visit the cairn on Border End on the way, and the little ridge descending to the pass from here. A delightful little tarn is a further reward for doing this. Beyond the pass keep left of the ridge on a good if rather wet track which runs above the plantation. After crossing a stile in a boggy hollow the climb to Harter Fell starts in earnest. The direct route down to Eskdale can be used for descent. It begins in the hollow south of the survey column and descends roughly westerly in direction curving round by Spothow Gill finally heading north east to the starting point.

ROUTE TWO. HARTER FELL FROM ESKDALE VIA CROOK CRAG AND GREEN CRAG. 4 miles 2700ft of ascent.

   A short distance west from the Woolpack Inn a lane leads down to Doctor Bridge across which a farm road serves Low Birker. An old peat road starts to climb the fellside left of the wood, and in a series of magnificent zig zags crests the moor. It can now be followed to Low Birker Pool, but after rounding Tarn Crag and crossing a small stream gain height up a recess to the rougher ground above Great Whinscale. The sharp little summit of Crook Crag is now close by, and a fine if short scramble is needed to reach it. Return to the path at it's base, and follow it south across a grassy depression to the imposing Green Crag again requiring some effort before the cairn is at hand. Leave Green Crag in an easterly direction after getting down from the highest rocks of the summit, and locate a path which has only recently formed which will lead down the moor to a stile by Grassguards Gill. Turn left up the bridleway as far as the northern extremity of the plantation where a path ascends by the fence up to Harter Fell. Descend to Eskdale as on Route One, but on reaching the intake wall keep left and go along to pick up the Penny Hill peat road down to the valley.

ROUTE THREE. HARTER FELL FROM BIRKER FELL VIA GREAT WORM CRAG, WHITE HOW, GREEN CRAG AND CROOK CRAG.
4.5 miles 2325ft of ascent.

 Just north of Winds Gate cattle grid on the Birker Fell road a tiny stream (Freeze Beck) comes down from Great Worm Crag, and the ascent of the fell may be started here up slopes liberally scattered with rocks and many ancient cairns. The path clearly seen higher up the fellside starts about twenty yards along the road from the left bank of the stream over a roadside ditch and marshy ground. From the summit a good path heads east to a cairn on Far Hill, but loses it's identity in the hollow beyond. Climb to the top of White How before curving north to Green Crag in attractive surroundings. Crock Crag may be added by a short detour, but otherwise as on Route Two descend easterly to the stile by Grassguards Gill. This wall may be followed back to Wormshell How and White How if returning this way. A second car in Eskdale or the Duddon Valley wou1d give more variable options. As on Route Two tum left up the bridleway to the boundary of the plantation, and ascend the path up by the fence onto Harter Fell.