LORDS SEAT, BARF AND THE WYTHOP FELLS
These fells
north of the Whinlatter Pass are Lakelands last outposts in the north west;
the ground falling eventually to the Embleton valley carrying the main
highway between Cockermouth and Keswick. There are no great crags here, and
no tarns either as the usual features that typify the region are giving way
to more placid scenery more in keeping with the countryside beyond. A good
part of this land has been covered in plantations, and it is to be hoped that
recent more visitor friendly policy opening out and diversifying the forest
will continue. The Visitor Centre at Whinlatter Pass is a noble enterprise,
and several marked walks can be undertaken in the area. Lords Seat is the
principal height in the group, and ridges radiate from it's grassy summit. It
is the objective of many walkers whether from the Visitor Centre or having
first ascended Barf from the road at Powter How. Barf is famous for it's
Bishop above Beckstones Gill resplendant in his brilliant coat of whitewash.
Although of no great height the Bishop is a sturdy figure in this land of
slate fragments and vegetated small outcrops. Below him standing in his
rightful position is the tooth like figure of The Clerk also cloaked in
white. Barf is the one exception to the general display of gentle slopes, and
is best climbed by the path up Beckstones Gill. The summit is a marvellous
place to look down on Bassenthwaite Lake, while Skiddaw forms an impressive
background. The main ridge from Lords Seat goes north west over Broom Fell to
Graystones. Both these fells are excellent sheep pastures, but for walkers
the ease of progress and the views will be more important. South of Lords
Seat high ground continues over Ullister Hill, and by way of a delightful
path created by the forestry people onward to Seat How a good vantage point.
A spur enclosing the hidden Aiken Valley rises to form Whinlatter Fell which
has a nice little ridge dominated by Grisedale Pike and Hopegill Head across
the Pass. A final word must be about the shy and peaceful Wythop Valley. This
opens out between Ling Fell and Sale Fell, and rises gently to the rim above
Bassenthwaite Lake a curious feature. Sale Fell guards the valley to the
north, and with it's subsidiary Lothwaite provides a delightful short walk.
The latter is a first class viewpoint for Bassenthwaite Lake.
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ROUTE ONE. LORDS SEAT FROM POWTER HOW VIA BARF.
1.75 miles 1650ft of ascent. 1 mile 1225ft of ascent to Barf.
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A
lane opposite the former Swan Hotel and the Powter How car park leads to
Beckstones and the stiles for the ascent of Beckstones Gill. The path on the
nearside of the stream passes The Clerk a tooth like figure in it's white
coat. Above and looking down on his lesser counterpart is The Bishop of Barf;
a remnant of rock in a wasteland of scree. A short way up the beck the path
crosses to the left bank and climbs steadily with a small crag to negotiate
higher up. There is a route round the crag, but there are ample steps and
holds to assist the climb. Soon after this a forest road is met and a short
distance on this to the right a stile gives a footing onto the open fell. The
path crosses the beck again and snakes it's way to the summit of Barf high
above Bassenthwaite Lake. Leaving Barf the route makes a short descent to
cross a wet depression with more peaty ground to come before the final rise
to Lords Seat. The return should be made by taking the path south to Ullister
Hill and onward to Seat How a fine viewpoint. Beyond Seat How the path
descends to a forest road which should be followed right soon bearing left
down another. This loops back and heads towards the Visitor Centre, but at
Comb Gill take a path down by the stream which leads to the main track down
into Thornthwaite by Comb Beck. The lane serving Beckstones is then available
for the remaining walk to the car park.
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ROUTE TWO. LORDS SEAT FROM WHINLATTER PASS VIA
WHINLATTER.
3.75 miles 1175ft of ascent. 1.5 miles 750ft of ascent to Whinlatter.
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Walk up the forest road
at the summit of the pass west of the Visitor Centre. Ignore an old road on
the left and continue to a crossroads where an amenity board used to display
a picture of Grisedale Pike. Sadly this has for the moment disappeared, but
the seat that was alongside is still there. Turn left and follow the road to
it's terminus where a stile admits to the unplanted fell. Climb steeply by
the fence bearing left along the ridge to ascend a minor rise and crossing a
spongy hollow before climbing to the cairn on the highest part of the fell. Some
people regard Brown How half a mile further on as the natural and accepted
summit, and the path leads to it over more peaty ground crossing a ruined
wall on the way. Return along the ridge to the forest fence and follow it
left to the top of Knotts. A short descent through the trees and the
important junction of Tarbarrel Moss is reached. Go ahead here north east and
follow the track as it curves left passing a marker post where a path to Seat
How branches off. This path is also the means of access to Ullister Hill if
so desired on the way to Lords Seat. Where it swings right into the trees
take to a narrow and rather muddy path up a heather clad slope directly
ahead. An equally wet path descends the far side to rejoin the main route
which has become a relaid path by this time. As a longer alternative to the
descent described in Route One; which is also viable for returning to the
pass via the Visitor Centre, consider walking along the ridge to Broom Fell.
Here turn down the fence line left into the Aiken Valley. Cross the stream
near a confluence of feeders and walk left up the valley to a junction of
forest roads. Take the one on the right heading back round the base of Brown
How and this will lead to the Whinlatter Pass road near Swinside Houses. A
short distance ahead go into the forest on the right and bear left ascending
gradually until a path (which must be watched for) cuts through the
plantation to the start of the walk.
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ROUTE THREE. LORDS
SEAT FROM WYTHOP MILL VIA LING FELL, GRAYSTONES AND BROOM FELL.
5.75 miles 2375ft of ascent.
Ascent Breakdown
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Distance
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Ascent
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miles
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km
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ft
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metres
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Wythop Mill to Ling Fell.
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1.75
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2.8
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850
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259
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Ling Fell to Graystones.
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1.75
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2.8
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800
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244
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Graystones to Broom Fell
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1.5
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2.4
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475
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145
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Broom Fell to Lords Seat.
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0.75
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1.2
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250
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76
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Walk up the lane to
Brunston Bridge where turn uphill to Eskin then right to a gate where the
strangely named Corpse Road starts. Ignore direct assaults up the fell and
follow the track right round when it becomes a mere path linking with another
track heading back across the hillside. From this a narrow path branches to
the right up to the survey column on Ling Fell. Descend south east down easy
slopes to a track that leads to a gate marking the start of the crossing of
Wythop Moss. The causeway is quite good, and at the far side bear right up to
a hurdle at the edge of the Darling How Plantation. A short climb then an
easy traverse leads to the cairn on Graystones beyond an old wall. Return to
the path running alongside the plantation, and this ascends the ridge to
Broom Fell and Lords Seat. It is best to retrace the route over Wythop Moss
unless a car has been left somewhere other than at Wythop Mill. Ling Fell can
be rounded on either side so the choice is yours!
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ROUTE FOUR. SALE FELL AND LING FELL FROM BECK
WYTHOP.
4 miles 1625ft of ascent
to Ling Fell.
Ascent Breakdown
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Distance
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Ascent
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miles
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km
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ft
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metres
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Beck Wythop to Lothwaite.
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1.5
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2.4
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875
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266
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Lothwaite to Sale Fell.
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0.5
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0.8
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150
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46
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Sale Fell to Ling Fell.
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2
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3.2
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725
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221
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Beck Wythop may
not seem an obvious base for visiting these two small fells, yet the ascent
above Bassenthwaite Lake and the sudden revelation of the shy Wythop Valley
make it a worthy choice. From the cottages ascend the forest road and go ahead
across the wider road it meets. A little twist and turn and at a gate by the
top of the plantations the view opens out, and the charming pastoral scene of
this hidden valley is revealed. Turn right up the track to Lothwaite Side and
continue ahead by a sad remnant of Hawthorn to a gate. Go along the track
right almost as far as the plantation, but ascend a path up through an area
of Oak trees to the ridge. Here take the path left to the top of Lothwaite an
unsung viewpoint if ever there was one. The ridge continues round to Sale
Fell with it's two cairns. Descend the ridge west and go down by the wall to
the lane. This is a bit steep and may be avoided by continuing along the
track to Kelswick, though this adds a good distance to the walk. Kelswick can
more easily be reached by returning to the wall below the summit of Sale Fell
and following it down. Brunston Bridge is just below the gate in the lane,
and here turn left up the hill to Eskin. Go right at the junction then
through a gate on the left onto the Corpse Road. This rounds the fell to
become a path that links with a higher track doubling back across the
hillside. From this a narrow path climbs up to the summit of Ling Fell.
Descend the eastern slope and use the track there to return to the lane at
Eskin. Now go straight ahead past Old Scales to the head of the valley. An
interesting alternative is to walk up the valley on the Kelswick side to look
at the old chapel just beyond the farm. The track can then be followed below
the protected Chapel Wood back to Lothwaite Side.
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Copyright (C) 2007 B S Baker