On the eastern side of the Kentmere valley a high ridge builds over Shipman Knotts and Kentmere Pike to finally culminate in the broad expanses of Harter Fell. There is an awareness around here in the minds of walkers that they are on the fringes of Lakeland as the usual features of crag and scree begin to become more isolated; the hills gradually merging into the moorland associated with the Shap Fells. Even Harter Fell the principal summit has these tendencies, more soothing than exciting, but not so is the tremendous northern face which plunges down to Mardale Head and Haweswater in a great wall of crag riven by deep gullies. Here too cradled below Nan Bield Pass on the Mardale side is one of the finest of mountain tarns Small Water. Standing here there is no thought of being anywhere but in the Lake District. The head of Mardale compares with the best that the district has to offer. The next valley east of Kentmere is Longsleddale and a beautiful dale it is. At Sadgill the hills close in for a last show of strength before declining towards Shap, and the River Sprint comes down through a narrow gap between the great buttresses of Goat Scar and Buckbarrow Crag. Through this defile the transition to softer smoother scenery is sudden and complete, as the track serving the former Wren Gill Quarries continues to Gatescarth Pass for Mardale or over to Mosedale and Swindale. There are old packhorse routes now serving a new purpose, as is the old corpse road from Mardale to Swindale and Shap. Mosedale is in reality a hanging valley which does it's best to retain all the water flowing into it, the ground here being notoriously wet. But then in spectacular surroundings the stream plunges down a series of fine falls and cascades into Swindale. In spate there is no finer place to witness this kind of scene. The waterfalls pools and ravines are all in view from a path on the western bank. Swindale is a little valley of great character; it's dalehead a delight with the quaintly named Hobgrumble Gill tumbling down the face from Nabs Moor. It is the daleheads and the flanks rather than the summits that mark this area, but a combination of the two facets during a walk is rather special. The views over the valleys to the high Cross Fell range are good, and from Grey Crag and the Kentmere Pike ridge those south to the low country around Morecambe Bay are notable.

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ROUTE ONE HARTER FELL FROM MARDALE HEAD OR SWINDALE VIA SELSIDE PIKE AND BRANSTREE.
4.5 miles 2350ft of ascent from Mardale Head. 4.5 miles 2275ft of ascent from Swindale Head

     It should be noted that cars are not permitted beyond Swindale Foot. It is approximately 1.5 miles along the lane to Swindale Head Farm. The Old Corpse Road from Mardale Head to Shap is used to start the walk from either valley. From Mardale Head it starts near the road bridge over Hopgill Beck one mile south of the car park. At Swindale Head the signpost indicates an overgrown lane which soon bends right and becomes a rough track by the wall. Take care to watch for the junction a short way ahead as the path continuing the line below Thorny Knott is the clearer. Turn sharply left here and ascend to cross a stream beyond which the open moor is reached. In either direction make for the highest point of the Old Corpse Road where a path for Selside Pike branches away a few yards down the Swindale or south side. It faithfully goes all the way to the big cairn on the top that looks rather like a tumulus to me, but is not marked as such on maps. Follow the fence now over the wet Captain Whelter Bog. The good captain also has some crags named after him across the valley on High Raise. The fence leads to the summit of Branstree, but make sure a visit is made to the cairns on Artlecrag Pike first. A circular concrete bowl marks the Ordnance Survey point near a junction of fences and wall. Continue ahead down the fence to Gatescarth Pass where the path to Harter Fell ascends the opposite slope and has been improved. A more level section on Little Harter Fell is succeeded by a climb to the angle in the fence high above Haweswater. (The finest viewpoint on the fell) The fence now leads south west to the summit. Descents to Mardale Head should be made via Nan Bield Pass and Small Water, though the finest circuit would be to visit High Street and descend over Rough Crag. For Swindale the way is long and not so clear cut. Return to Gatescarth Pass and cut round the south flank of Branstree to pick up the path to Mosedale and Swindale. Not easy and very wet! It is probably better to retrace the route of ascent.

ROUTE TWO. HARTER FELL FROM LONGSLEDDALE VIA TARN CRAG, GREY CRAG and BRANSTREE.
5.5 miles 3100ft of ascent.

  The start from Sadgill is diagonally up the field opposite the farm to a stile in the top corner.Turn right for a short distance before going up an obvious shallow gully which in the bracken season is not as pleasant. Then bear right to a section of fence which is easily negotiated and the top of Great Howe is just above. Great Howe can also be accessed from Stockdale up the track behind the farm to a gate on the left. The walls above here are not maintained, and a track can be found through the old quarry workings higher up to a gap in the cross wall. The path is now easy to follow up to the summit where an almost level ridge brings the final steeper slopes to hand. There is a thin path trending right and crossing a small stream before angling up the base of the summit to the cairn on Grey Crag. On the way to Tarn Crag the fine cairn on Harrop Pike may be visited along the fence north east before coming back to follow it over the wet depression to Tarn Crag. A more direct line to Tarn Crag above the lip of the valley is more interesting. From Tarn Crag go back north east to the ridge fence and descend on a good path to cross the head of Mosedale before climbing alongside the fence and wall to the summit of Branstree. The Ordnance Survey indicator is a few yards away to the north east from the end of the wall. Turn left from the wall down by the fence to Gatescarth Pass and ascend the reconstructed track up the other side over Little Harter Fell. At the angle in the fence beyond there is the finest view of Haweswater before the last simple promenade to the top of Harter Fell. The finest way down to Sadgill is over Kentmere Pike and Shipman Knotts to the bridleway from Kentmere.

ROUTE THREE. HARTER FELL FROM KENTMERE OR LONGSLEDDALE VIA SHIPMAN KNOTTS AND KENTMERE PIKE.
5 miles 2225ft of ascent from Kentmere. 4 miles 2150ft of ascent from Sadgill.

   The bridleway from High Lane in Kentmere by the barns at Stile End to Sadgill is the first objective. From the Kentmere side once on the easier upper section there is a path that cuts a corner up the rough pasture to the wall climbing the ridge. If this cannot be located continue to the gate in the wall, and as is also required if starting at Sadgill take the path over the tiny stream and up the left side of the wall. There are two steeper parts to the ascent the first being in view from the bridleway, and the other alongside the wall leads to the summit. The cairn is on the east side of the wall but it hardly matters. Go over a slight dip to a very steep stepstile, and over another stile on the right before following the fence up onto Goat Scar whose natural summit is slightly lower but commands superb views of Longsleddale. Climb the stile in the angle of the fence and follow it north west up the broad slopes of Kentmere Pike. A stile has been provided to cross the wall to the Survey Column. Return to the west of the wall and the path and in tandem they will lead to the summit of Harter Fell whose cairn is usually embellished with old iron fence posts. For Sadgill descend by the fence down the good path to Gatescarth Pass where turn right. Kentmere is reached by going a few yards west to the ridge leading down to Nan Bield Pass where turn left.

ROUTE FOUR. GREY CRAG FROM SWINDALE VIA SELSIDE PIKE, BRANSTREE AND TARN CRAG.
5.25 miles 2500ft of ascent.

   While this walk does not conform to the general pattern of ridge walking to the highest fell in the section; it does provide a circular moorland walk from Swindale. Please note that from the foot of the valley a further 1.5 miles must be added. After walking up the lane to Swindale Head take the Old Corpse Road up the fellside on the right as signed. The track keeps by the wall which bends right, but just above here watch for the junction and go sharply left; not on the inviting path continuing ahead. A small stream is crossed then the open moor is reached. Near the summit of the track look out for a path trending off to the left and slanting across the fell. This leads to the large summit cairn on Selside Pike. Follow the fence along the ridge over Captain Whelter Bog to Branstree. A path leaves the fence to visit the nearby cairns on Artlecrag Pike before going to the circular OS basin marking the summit. Cross the step stile and descend by the wall to the depression across which a path climbs the slope, and does it's best to avoid the worst ground. There is at present a fence to negotiate part way up before the ground eases, and a traverse right brings the old survey post on Tarn Crag into view. Either return to the fence and follow it to the corner post before turning right for Grey Crag; or take a more direct line but keep to the right of the wet ground that is or was Greycrag Tarn. The cairn on Harrop Pike is in view to the north east along the ridge, and at this point curve round the head of Little Mosedale Beck aiming for the prominent plantation. Below here the footbridge over the stream has gone and not been replaced sadly, but unless in spate the wide bridge over Mosedale Beck will be safely reached. Go up the slope to join the track from Mosedale Cottage; which should be left in favour of a path on the right that comes to the top of the Forces. These are the highlight of the walk, and are best appreciated during the seasons when the trees have lost their foliage, and of course when in spate. In such conditions they have no rivals in the area. At the foot a footbridge marks the start of a path that winds along the valley side to Truss Gap. It is not shown on the map. This is not a walk to do on a day of poor visibility if unfamiliar with the territory.