THE CONISTON FELLS
The Coniston Fells form a
tightly knit group of hills that rise between the higher reaches of the
Duddon Valley and the Coniston to Skelwith Bridge road through Yewdale. Their
scenery is typically Lakeland in character with steep craggy slopes and
mountain combs cradling tarns of special quality; despite in most cases
having been impounded to supply power to the former mines. The ridges once
attained are a joy to tread opening up excellent views, and providing a
succession of dramatic and interesting highlights to enjoy. Wrynose Pass to
the north is the only link with the central mass of fells; the encircling
valleys enhancing the appearance of the Coniston hills when seen at a
distance, and also giving the outward views a special advantage. Nothing
dominates the Coniston Fells, not even Bowfell or the Scafells seen to
perfection from Grey Friar. Over the years mines and quarries have left their
mark, but the hills proudly rise above the spoil and ruins which do in fact
add an extra interest to the walks here. Of the many grand scenes within the
area pre-eminent must be the great cliff of Dow Crag rising above the wild
recess holding Goats Water to the very summit of the fell. As seen in storm
from the edge of the tarn the scene is quite awe inspiring. Walkers must take
reasonable care when in the vicinity of the old workings, and refrain from
entering levels that often lead to vertical shafts, and may well be unsafe in
any case. It is much more preferable that time be spent traversing the main
ridge from Coniston Old Man to Swirl How along the rim above Low Water,
Levers Water and ultimately looking down to Little Langdale. Wetherlam too
has several excellent lines of ascent, and it's favourable position commands
the lower country around the head of Windermere. The Walna Scar track from
Coniston to Seathwaite marks the southern boundary beyond which the high
ground continues over White Maiden before declining in stages to Caw and the
mountains in miniature around Stickle Pike that make up the next section.
Sadly the Walna Scar road has suffered badly in recent times due to off the
road vehicles, and is not the pleasant approach to the hills it used to be.
As with the remains of the mines the best thing to do is ?Lift thine eyes
unto the hills' and they will give promise of the rewards awaiting. The
number of walkers met on the Coniston Fells confirms the high regard people
have for them, and rightly so!
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ROUTE ONE. SWIRL HOW FROM LITTLE LANGDALE VIA
GREAT CARRS.
4.25 miles 2400ft of ascent. 3.75 miles 2250ft of ascent to Great
Carrs
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First of all go
down to Slaters Bridge either by the track to High Birk Howe, or the lane
adjacent to the Three Shires Inn. Look for a stile on the right in the lane
through which a field path leads to the bridge. Cross the bridge to the
walled track and follow it right past some cottages. A track leading to
Tilberthwaite is passed, but a short way afterwards bear left to Greenburn as
the other begins to descend to Fell Foot. At the intake wall go down to cross
the footbridge and ascend the path to the ridge. Marshy at first this
improves higher up despite being called Wet Side Edge. Take care to turn left
up to Little Carrs as a prominent path keeps ahead for Grey Friar. Some fine
views down the face into Greenburn are seen and the final stages to the cairn
on Great Carrs are good. A simple curving ridge connects with Swirl How, but
pause to look at the remains of the plane and down the Greenburn face to see
more of the wreckage. Wetherlam is the obvious way back to Little Langdale
reached by going down Prison band to Swirl Hause and up the facing slope. It
is not advisable having reached the bottom of Wetherlam Edge to follow the
path marked in green on the map. This like others of it's kind does not mean
a path exists, and it is better to cross Birk Fell to join the path near Low
Fell (Great Intake) where drop down left to the valley.
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ROUTE TWO. SWIRL HOW
FROM TILBERTHWAITE VIA LOW FELL, WETHERLAM AND BLACK SAILS.
3.5 miles 2950ft of ascent.
Ascent Breakdown
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Distance
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Ascent
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miles
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km
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ft
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metres
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Tilberthwaite to Low Fell
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1
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1.6
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850
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259
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Low Fell to Wetherlam.
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1.25
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2
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1350
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411
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Wetherlam to Black Sails
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0.5
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0.8
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125
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38
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Black Sails to Swirl How.
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0.75
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1.2
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625
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183
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At Low Tilberthwaite
start as usual up the track round the cottages, but before the stream is
crossed and the path starts up Tilberthwaite Gill turn up a path on the
right. This steeply ascends the ridge east of the stream with a wall for
company and at last levels out with Low Fell now just ahead. Keep on to a
cross wall where a stile on the right enables a footing to be made onto Low
Fell. A path leads over a wet area to the summit structure which is an
attractive place commanding a splendid view over Blea Tarn to the Langdale
Pikes. Return to the stile and follow the opposite wall up to a further stile
when the slopes of Birk Fell may be tackled. The undulating top is succeeded
by a rough steep climb up the ridge of Wetherlam Edge which is enjoyable
apart from under icy conditions. The summit should be left south west to
cross Red Dell Head for Black Sails. The main path omits this fine top which
is well worth a visit. Leave Black Sails down the northern slope to rejoin
the track which crosses Swirl Hause and ascends the rocky ridge of Prison
Band to Swirl How. Tilberthwaite is not easily reached from Swirl How, and
one of the options for the return is to go over Great Carrs and down Wet Side
Edge into Greenburn. Take the track to the right just before the cottages at
Hall Garth are reached. Sadly it may be badly cut up by off road traffic.
Wetherlam is the shortest way back but involves a little more ascent. The
ridge of Lad Stones is an alternative from here to meet the miners track from
Coppermines to Tilberthwaite.
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ROUTE THREE. SWIRL
HOW FROM CONISTON VIA CONISTON OLD MAN AND BRIM FELL.
4.5 miles 2925ft of ascent.
Ascent Breakdown
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Distance
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Ascent
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miles
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km
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ft
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metres
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Coniston to Coniston Old Man
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2.5
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4
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2450
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747
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Coniston Old Man to Brim Fell
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0.5
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0.8
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75
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23
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Brim Fell to Swirl How.
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1.5
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2.4
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400
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122
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I have not intended
to reduce Coniston Old Man to a lesser status. It will always be the main
attraction for walkers at Coniston. However Swirl How is the natural hub of
the group, and it fits the purpose here to have it as the final objective.
Either side of Church Beck can be taken from the village; though I prefer the
narrow lane from the main road to the Sun Hotel where turn right at the
signpost. Keep left at Miners Bridge and ascend to meet the track coming in
from the Walna Scar Road. A few paces on bear straight up into the quarries
which may not be pretty but have interesting remains. Low Water is a scenic
delight before the last rough ascent to the Old Man's summit. It is now
merely a matter of keeping to the ridge, and it's highway of a path over Brim
Fell and Great How Crags to Swirl How. The most direct route back is down
Prison Band to Swirl Hause where turn right and descend to Levers Water and
the Coppermines Valley.
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ROUTE FOUR. ?SWIRL HOW FROM WALNA SCAR VIA BROWN PIKE, DOW CRAG, CONISTON OLD
MAN AND BRIM FELL.
7 miles 3400ft of ascent from Coniston. 6.5 miles 3250ft of ascent
from Seathwaite.
Ascent Breakdown
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Distance
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Ascent
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miles
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km
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ft
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metres
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Coniston to Brown Pike
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3.25
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5.2
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2050
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625
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Seathwaite to Brown Pike.
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2.75
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4.4
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1900
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579
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Brown Pike to Dow Crag.
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0.75
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1.2
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375
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114
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Dow Crag to Coniston Old Man.
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1
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1.6
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500
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152
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Coniston Old Man to Brim Fell.
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0.5
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0.8
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75
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23
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Brim Fell to Swirl How
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1.5
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2.4
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400
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123
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From Coniston the
Walna Scar Road climbs steeply behind Dixon Ground near the former railway
station now a car park. It is walled until the intake gate and cars may be
parked here on the open common. The track continues ahead eventually coming
to Cove Bridge before climbing steadily to the pass. The start of the Walna
Scar Road from Seathwaite is a narrow lane immediately before the road
crosses Seathwaite Bridge over Tarn Beck, and a few cars may be left above
Long house. At the summit of the Walna Scar Road a broad path ascends the
short slope on the northern side to the stony top of Brown Pike. Resume the
journey along the ridge noting Blind Tarn below, and later the various heads
of the gullies on Dow Crag. The cairned top of Buck Pike is passed on the
way. A little scramble up the rocks leads to the small basin on the highest
point directly above the great crag. With care an exit can be made on the
north side, but if a head for heights is lacking circle round the western
side to pick up the path below the summit rocks. The path now circles round
the combe containing Goats Water, and ascends steeply at first before a more
gradual slope brings the Old Man underfoot. A short cut can be made from
Goats Hause across the flank of Brim Fell to Levers Hause. As on Route Three
it only remains to follow the ridge path from the Old Man over Brim Fell and
the depression of Levers Hause. A climb to Great How Crags is the final test
of energy levels before a more gentle promenade to the large cairn on Swirl
How. For Seathwaite it is possible to drop down from Levers Hause to
Seathwaite Tarn. If time and energy permits go round to Grey Friar, and take
the path from there down to the tarn. To Coniston the descent mentioned in
Route Three applies.
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ROUTE FIVE. SWIRL HOW FROM SEATHWAITE VIA GREY
FRIAR AND
GREAT CARRS
5 miles 2650ft of ascent
Ascent Breakdown
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Distance
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Ascent
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miles
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km
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ft
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metres
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Seathwaite to Grey Friar
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3.75
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6
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2200
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671
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Grey Friar to Great Carrs
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0.75
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1.2
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300
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91
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Great Carrs to Swirl How
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0.5
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0.8
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150
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46
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Just before the
road crosses Tarn Beck north of Seathwaite the Walna Scar Road branches off
on the right. The Seathwaite Reservoir service road begins at the head of the
surfaced lane ascending left for a good mile to the dam. Walk across the dam
and look ahead for a path going up to Troutal Fell between Loft Rigg How and
Tarn Brow. Though not shown on the O S map this path continues above Goat
Crag; finally curving up to the summit of Grey Friar which has two cairns on
rock outcrops. After admiring the view to the Scafells take the ridge path
north east down to the grassy depression of Fairfield, and take the central
one of three paths up the slope of Great Carrs. At the moment this path fades
before the top is reached. The last lap to Swirl How is merely a matter of
walking round the top of Broad Slack noting the aeroplane wreckage below, and
the remains and plaque on the ridge. It is quite feasible to go down into
Calf Cove for Seathwaite Tarn in descent, but the area above the reservoir is
not exactly well frequented. The royal way back for good walkers would be
along the ridge to the Old Man, and then a traverse round to Dow Crag and
Brown Pike for Walna Scar.
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Copyright (C) 2007 B S Baker