If the name Pillar is mentioned to anyone who is familiar with the fells of Lakeland then fond memories will perhaps be evoked of days spent on this fine mountain, or within sight of it from nearby vantage points. Pillar has a great presence on the western side of the district overlooked by nothing and dominating everything in the immediate area. As with many fells Pillar can boast a good side,  but has to admit to other parts not quite living up to that standard. In this case the good side is very good indeed with the famous Pillar Rock jutting out high above the floor of Ennerdale. Walkers sometimes use the Climbers Traverse from Black Sail Pass to Robinsons Cairn, and then gain the summit by way of the Shamrock Traverse and the path behind the great rock itself. This group of hills is not all about about Pillar however for here is the distinctive peak of Steeple and the fine cliffs of Black Crag, Scoat Fell and Red Pike. The mile long escarpment falling from Red Pike into Mosedale is sensational, and many people never see it properly as they adhere to the main track below the summit. Nestling between Red Pike and Scoat Fell is Scoat Tarn a very nice place to visit and eat your sandwiches. Of lower elevation but lacking nothing else is an old adversary of mine Yewbarrow. This fell is all it appears to be on the valley approach by Wast Water. It promises hard work, and that is how it turns out. Yewbarrow is defended by crags at both ends of the ridge, bristling with them like a hedgehog. All can be negotiated with care, but erosion too has added to the need for caution. The ascent is rarely looked forward to, but the fulfillment of it will put a spring in the step for the rest of the day. These fells have Ennerdale for their northern boundary and Wasdale to the south. The Black Sail Pass at the head of Mosedale forms the link with the adjacent Great Gable group. On the western side the valley of  Nether Beck and the stream of  Deep Gill on the Ennerdale flank mark the limits. Pillar and it's attendant fells provide everything a fellwalker requires; even if the rewards do not
come too easily. Yet that is how it should be surely. And that goes for Steeple too which is rarely climbed from the valley floor, but for maximum interest should be, preferably from Gillerthwaite over Lingmell to Low Beck and finally up the narrowing ridge.

ROUTE ONE. PILLAR FROM WASDALE HEAD OR BLACK SAIL VIA LOOKING STEAD. 4 miles 2775ft of ascent from Wasdale Head.  2.5 miles 2100ft of ascent from Black Sail. To Looking Stead it is 3 miles 1825ft of ascent from Wasdale Head and 1.5 miles and 1150ft of ascent from Black Sail.

      Pillar rises at the head of Mosedale, and a good track leaves Wasdale Head up the valley. The path curves up the flank of Kirk Fell to cross Gatherstone Beck, and up Gatherstone Head to Black Sail Pass. There are short cuts but it is much better to go to the top of the pass before turning back up the ridge. Kirk Fell presents a fierce front from here and is worth seeing at close quarters. Looking Stead is an unremarkable grassy hill with the merit of a fine view along the climbers path to Robinson's Cairn. Back on the main path it is now merely a matter of ascending the ridge, though in misty conditions this can be confusing territory if the marked way is lost. From the foot of Looking Stead adventurous souls can reach Pillar along the climbers path, but beyond Robinson's Cairn erosion has diminished former pleasure across the Shamrock Traverese and behind Pillar Rock. The ground to the summit from the rock is badly damaged now. I hesitate to recommend alternative ways down for similar reasons. The screes below Wind Gap, and if Black Crag and Red Pike are added to the walk those down from Dore Head are not for gentle folk. For the sake of the ground itself they should be avoided. A second car at Overbeck Bridge is the best way to have a walk over Pillar and back to Wasdale.

ROUTE TWO. PILLAR FROM OVERBECK BRIDGE VIA YEWBARROW, RED PIKE, SCOAT FELL AND BLACK CRAG.
5 miles 3975ft of ascent.

   A grand expedition but where Yewbarrow is involved a hard one. From the car park ascend the path up the ridge below Bell Rib to the stepstile. A short way beyond having crossed the stile a paved path turns up to the right. Expectations of similar conditions all the way up Yewbarrow are swiftly dashed as the route climbs up to the base of crags and heads left into the confines of a scree gully now mainly bare rock. Clamber out on the left to easier ground before re-entering the gully again until the top exit is reached. Keep to the left of the various attempts to struggle up to the ridge, and spirits raised arrive at the Great Door a wide cleft in the crags. The path now surmounts several rocky rises before arriving at the summit cairn. A descent can be made to Over Beck from the shallow depression to follow the path up to Dore Head so avoiding Stirrup Crag which lies in wait for those continuing along the ridge to the north top. The descent is not as bad as it looks from the top there being plenty of steps and holds. There is just one awkward spot where a rock has to rounded with the next foothold round the other side. The worn scree at the base is the least enjoyable part, but at Dore Head Red Pike can be looked forward to, and the path climbs steadily to this very fine summit with it's sharply defined Mosedale face. On the last steep section to the summit a path branches to the left to visit The Chair a great spot for lunch. Scoat Fell may be avoided by the path round the head of Black Comb, but is a simple detour and worth doing for it's northern face and views to Steeple which can also be visited. A very rough area of boulders has to be crossed on leaving Scoat Fell for Black Crag; which is a good summit once more defended on the Pillar side by a field of boulders. The path forms below them and goes down to Wind Gap prior to tackling the rocky facing slope with many choices over the well worn ground. The slope eases as the summit is approached  on which go to the north shelter to look down on Pillar Rock. Returns can be made back over Red Pike to Over Beck or from the col between Red Pike and Scoat Fell down to Scoat Tarn and Nether Beck. Tired feet will not appreciate the stony track lower down this valley though. To avoid further climbing the path down to Black Sail Pass turning right for Mosedale and Wasdale Head is best, though unless transport is available there is a long road walk to do.

ROUTE THREE. PILLAR FROM NETHERBECK BRIDGE VIA STEEPLE, SCOAT FELL AND BLACK CRAG.
5.25miles 3300ft of ascent.

  Nether Beck offers a good line of approach to Pillar, and the track up the valley is clear enough after the initial hundred yards or so from the bridge which is very marshy. Where the streams meet below Little Lad Crag there is a choice of following that on the left to the col between Haycock and Scoat Fell or preferably keeping to the path all the way to Scoat Tarn which deserves a visit. At the tarn easy slopes lead up on the left by a feeder stream to the top of Scoat Fell where Steeple will come into view for those who wish to go down to it. Scoat Fell's summit cairn actually sits astride the wall which ends in an area of large boulders looking down the ridge to Black Crag. Notice the fine gully in the face of Black Crag on the gentle ascent to it's cairn a little further on topping yet more stony ground. Another rough section of boulders must be negotiated before the path asserts itself down to Wind Gap. The facing slope is equally awkward but there are several choices of route up the rocks before the gentler summit slopes of Pillar are reached. The best way back is to cut round the head of Black Comb from Black Crag and then cross Red Pike to drop down to Dore Head for Over Beck.

ROUTE FOUR. PILLAR FROM ENNERDALE (Gillerthwaite) VIA STEEPLE, SCOAT FELL AND BLACK CRAG.
6 miles 3100ft of ascent from Bowness car park.

   This is the way to do justice to Steeple rather than sneak onto it from Scoat Fell. From the car park at Bowness Point walk down the track and along the lake to the bridge over the River Liza. Turn left over Woundell Beck, and then ascend a forest ride to the open top of Lingmell. The path rounds the shoulder and descends a little to cross Low Beck before beginning the ascent to Steeple's north ridge. The sense of reward and improvement in surroundings increases with every step as the views across Mirk Cove to Black Crag and Pillar are revealed. Even so there will probably be no regrets on arriving at the summit after the effort entailed. Sadly the path over the tiny ridge to Scoat Fell is badly scarred now; yet the scenery overall remains grand. Bear left along the wall to the summit cairn on Scoat Fell which is actually perched on the wall. Proceed to the end of the wall where a gap admits to an area of awkward boulders below which a pleasant traverse leads up to Black Crag. Note the fine gully on the crag to the left of the ridge. Another section of large rocks faces Pillar, and scratch marks tell the story of how others have crossed here. The path then goes down the ridge to cross Wind Gap and up the scarred rocky ridge to Pillar. Fortunately the ground eases higher up, and the summit is an area of pleasant grass with the wall shelter and survey column the final destination. Visit the shelter a few paces north for the view down to Pillar Rock. Walkers with plenty of energy can return over Scoat Fell and go on to Haycock and Little Gowder Crag. After reaching the ridge below the rocks turn down the tongue to the confluence of Deep Gill and Silvercove Beck. Those with less energy may descend from Wind Gap directly to Ennerdale.